A Chocolate love affair!

 In the midst of National Refugee Week it seems only fitting to honour one of the many thousands of refugees who have come to Australia aiming for a better life for themselves and their families. 

As it's also winter and one's mind turns to food, sweet treats involving chocolate abound. So today's blog honours a chocolatier who, many Sydneysiders in particular, would remember fondly.

WLADYSLAW (WALTER) PULKOWNIK

Wladyslaw, or Walter as he liked to be named, was born in September 1909 in Pogranichnaya, Manchuria, one of six children. His father was a baker from Lithuania and both  parents were Polish, migrating to China in 1900.

Wladyslaw (Walter) Pulkownik surrounded by his creations - from "Unification" article with thanks

Ivan was well known in Harbin for his pastries etc. and young Walter left school at the age of 14 to take up an apprenticeship as a pastrycook in his father's factory learning how to bake bread, make cakes and chocolate.

In February 1931 he married Ludmila Sitnikova and soon the Japanese moved into Manchuria. The family decided that life was untenable in Harbin and looked to move to another country. Some family members moved to America and Walter went to Australia for a look at what the country had to offer while Ludmila remained in Harbin. Walter wasn't sure about a new life in Australia but as things became more difficult in Harbin he sold everything and made the move to Sydney arriving in December 1938.

Other family and friends met up in Sydney in 1939 and many bought farms, now part of suburban Sydney. Walter found a place to live in Ultimo and established a chocolate making business but it failed due to cocoa scarcities during World War 2. He pivoted and made bread and pastries in Paddington and, as he was running an essential service, was exempted from military service. His business supplied coffee shops and he employed up to 36 staff. Most were newly arrived refugees from Harbin, many finding a bed in the Polkownik's home. During the War he supplied the American Officer's Club in the city. 

Walter expanded the company but this led to financial difficulties in 1962 and he had to liquidate the business. Soon after he took up a position as a foreman at a meat pie factory. His friends from Harbin reminded him of his father's delicious rum flavoured chocolates and urged him to return to chocolate making. He found a shop and starting making hand made and individually wrapped chocolates. (A little like Lindt chocolates today but even more flavoursome). He named the business "Paddington Chocolates". When he first offered his wares to a Double Bay store they were reluctant to take even a few bags but within days they were begging for more.  Walter based his chocolate making upon his father's original recipe - a firm rum cream with a chocolate coating. 

Soon he started to incorporate different flavours,  marizipan, then cherry brandy followed by creme de menthe, hazelnut and so on. They were stocked at David Jones and at small outlets in other capital cities. 

Display counter in Paddington shop - sourced from "Unification" article with thanks.

His shop in Paddington was small but distinctive with tinselled windows and two silver samovars. Walter ran the business with his daughter and a son. Local children came to the shop after school to wrap chocolates for which they received "pocket" money. Unfortunately the State Department of Labour and Industry put a stop to the practice in 1976 citing that Walter was employing under age labour with inadequate safety measures being taken. The children of the area were very disappointed!

Samovar - Wikipedia

A tall, strong man he continued the practice of hand making chocolates until he was 76 years old, then handed over the running of the business to his son, Walter. 

Pulkownik was fluent in Polish, Russian and Chinese but struggled with English, stating it was the most difficult language to learn. Naturalised in 1946, he sponsored Poles and Russians to Australia, a country he was not so keen on upon his first visit. 

Wladyslaw Pulkownik died in August 1987 and is buried alongside Ludmila who died in 1995 in the Russian Orthodox section of the Cemetery. 

Pulkownik Headstone - sourced from Unification" article with thanks 

I remember visiting his small shop in Stanmore in the early 1980's, buying many chocolates and eating them too quickly - they were sensational! Unfortunately the business did not survive and we will just have to be content remembering the sheer delight of unwrapping a Pulkownik chocolate and savouring it's intense flavour.  

I, for one, am so pleased Walter decided upon Australia as his new home - just think his delicious chocolates may have only been for American consumption!!!

There are a few references to Pulkownik in Trove, with a large entry via the Australian Dictionary of Biography. "Unification," a weekly Russian newspaper, ran a great story about Walter in October 2020 both of which I have sourced for this blog. 

If you have any comments or reminiscences about Pulkownik's Chocolates please comment on this page and if unable to please search for the rookwoodcemeterydiscoveries group facebook page and comment there. I'd love to hear your feedback.